Fitzroy and Cerro Torre
Fitzroy and Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre, rising 10,262 feet (3,128 meters) above the glaciers of southern Patagonia on the Argentina–Chile border, is one of the most spectacular and notoriously difficult mountains on Earth. In the photo, it sits as one of three little spikes to the left of Fitzroy.   Its almost vertical granite walls rise like a stone […]

Zugdidi
Zugdidi

I thought I was a seasoned traveler in more culturally complex places. On my way from Tbilisi, Georgia to Zugdidi, I arrived late and got the last seat – a middle seat – on an old and very dilapidated train. I covet wonderful train experiences, but quickly realized that this hot, small center seat was […]

Eclipse 2017 Madras, Oregon
Eclipse 2017 Madras, Oregon

Surprised by Joy (William Wordsworth) October 4, 2017 9:45 AM I doubt if the effect of witnessing a total eclipse ever quite passes away. The impression is singularly vivid and quieting for days, and can never be wholly lost. A startling nearness to the gigantic forces of nature and their inconceivable operation seems to have […]

Raj & Champa in Kathmandu
Raj & Champa in Kathmandu

[Nepal] I arranged to spend three months in Kathmandu studying Nepali. Raj Shresha was my language teacher and I’ve stayed in touch with Raj and his family for years. In 1994 I brought him to Seattle for six months and arranged for him to stay rent free at my old friend Betty Jane Narver’s. I […]

Korce
Korce

Why Albania? A number of people have wondered why I, or anyone, would go to Albania (and North Macedonia). Some were actually dismissive, as if they had an idea what Albania was about, or had even given a second’s thought to the matter. One person was downright snobbish. I thought to myself, what failures of […]

Vending machine message
Vending machine message

[Japan] What draws us to places so different? Is it the fascination with oulandish juxtaposition? Anyone can feel clever as they experience the coarse aesthetic of cultures interacting. It’s too easy. A lot of times it’s just cheap profundity, although mightily entertaining. Another example: Vending machine message found in the Rapongi District of Tokyo, an […]

Venice
Venice

[Italy] Jack brought his ball, and for every mile we walked, he bounced and walked. “What a fun place, this is,” we exclaimed. Even with all the tourists, the absurd prices, the Disney sense of it all, we were excited. Getting lost walking the non-tourist outskirts of the city through a labyrinth of narrowness, dilapidation, […]

Up the Rio Coco
Up the Rio Coco

[Nicaragua] I helped put a group of people together to go look at social projects along the Coco River. Our agreement was to find a worthy project and then work together over three years to support it through helping to raise money in Seattle. (Photo essay on the venture philanthropy trip) Later, we did some […]

Meteora
Meteora

[Greece] Old monasteries sit perched high on dramatic rock formations in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains of central Greece. Sophie and I hiked around. This 12 year old of mine was a very different kind of traveler than the nine and ten year old who went with me to Guatemala and Alaska. Here I […]

The guy in the leather coat turns to me
The guy in the leather coat turns to me

[Hungary] The guy introduced himself. He said, “Call me Uncle.” I said “why,” and he responded “Well, you can’t call me comrade, because I was never a member of the communist party. And you can’t call me mister, because I wear such pants as these,” and he tweaked at his ancient, blue, polyester slacks.