[Pakistan] The 800 mile Karakorum highway from Islamabad, Pakistan had been open a year, and I was heading to China over the highest paved road in the world – the 15,000 foot Kunjerab pass. Earlier on the trip, I had taken a bus from Lahore to Peshawar that was pretty scary, and so I had […]
[Pakistan] We walked across to the “Field of Martyrs,” graves of men recently killed in the war with Russia. Next to me was a photographer from the Chicago Sun Times, and the scene got him talking about his own legacy, in this case the body of photographs he wanted to leave behind. It got me […]
[Pakistan] I was struck by the enormous contradictions within the Muslim psyche. On the one hand was the extraordinary warmth, hospitality, and ability to talk deeply about many topics. But then there were the constant hatreds running across the factions within Islam. It played itself out in a couple ways. In Northern Pakistan, 20 miles […]
[Pakistan] It was 1989 and I met two Afghan men on the street who were both back from fighting the Russians. One of them had been trained as a doctor in East Germany and he thought I was German. But he also spoke some English. I was invited to their home in one of the […]