[Vietnam]

I rent a boat, and with it comes a boatman, a guide, a cook, and the boat’s owner. We meander for several days among and through hundreds of islands, stopping to buy meals from floating seafood farms. Shrimp, eels, fish, crab, scampi.

As we wind our way through the limestone karst formations that make Halong Bay what it is, we talk. This is a rare event for these people, in fact, they have never taken just one person on a trip. When they have work, it’s almost always with a group of six or more – most often French or Chinese people. They tell me that they are always ignored and ordered around.

Because I am as interested in them as I am the surroundings, they warm quickly and are obviously enjoying themselves. I ask lots of questions, and find out the contours of each of their lives. Typically, all four struggle. There is fierce competition for tourists, and a lot of boats. Since September 11, business has fallen off substantially.

The cost per day for the boat, food, and all four of their services is $140.